“Il Classico della Berardenga”: sub-areas in Chianti Classico?
Originally the geographical territory of “Chianti” where Chianti Classico is now produced was limited to the arch defined by the three villages: Castellina, Radda and Gaiole in Chianti. Then it enlarged to Greve, and parts of the villages of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, San Casciano and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa with no modification for the last 300 years.
The claim of the just passed edition of Chianti Classico Collection was “Together” because producers communicate under the Black Rooster historical territory while conscious of the diversity of terroir among the appellation; a treasure to discover in depth. In fact, Chianti Classico main grape variety, Sangiovese, is very sensitive to difference of soil types, sun exposure, and altitude, therefore temperature range between night and day.
Last year at ProWein 2014, two of the producers in the area of Castelnuovo Berardenga, close to Siena, Giovanni Poggiali (Fèlsina) and Valeria Losi (Losi Querciavalle) start exchanging their experiences and the initial idea of getting to know better each other and their expressions of the territory through their wines lead to a special tasting last January 29th involving 28 producers.
The beautiful location of the Chartreuse of Pontignano welcomed wine professionals for a technical convention on history, economics, landscape, viticulture, ampelography and human richness of Berardenga area, one called “the butterfly of the Grand Duchy” for its shape on the map. Maurizio Castelli, Tuscan winemaker expert on Sangiovese, underlined the advantages of soil diversity, a poor stony soil, rich in friable clay (galestro), limestone (alberese) and sandstone. Alessandra Casini (Bindi Sergardi) pointed that wine growers in Castelnuovo Berardenga are sure of the value of their wines, proved by the fact that 90% of producers bottling under their own label.
We were able to meet some of the producers at CCC15 and here some of our picks, inviting you to meet the producers in the forthcoming 2015 ProWein:
Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 (Sangiovese 90%, Colorino 5%, Merlot 5%) (sample num. 3 blind tasting) Fruity wine with a nice structure and quality of oak notes.
Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico 2012 (Sangiovese 90%, Canaiolo 5%, Merlot 5%) Attractive fresh red fruits on the nose. Good balance between warm body and acidity.
Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2009 (100% Sangiovese) Coralia Pignatelli keeps in her cellar bottles back to 1971 and she likes to release wines on the market after long ageing in bottle. Wines express the complexity and fineness of Sangiovese; warm but ethereal.
Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Moceni 89 2010 (Sangiovese 100%) (Sample num. 320 blind tasting) Elegant, faded flowers scents.
Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Losi Millennium 2009 (Sangiovese 90%, Canaioli 5%, Malvasia Nera 5%) Very expressive in the nose, prunes, black cherries, spices, nice balance between grape variety fruit character and barrel ageing.
Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2011 (100% Sangiovese) Complex and expressive nose on mineral (slate), liquorice and fruity (prunes, brandied cherries) notes.
Fattoria di Corsignano Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione L’Imperatrice 2012 (100% Sangiovese) Plot selection of well-drained soil, with lower percentage of clay (galestro), resulting in a structured wine, fruity, concentrated but equilibrated by a nice freshness.
Castello di Selvole Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione Ponte Rosso 2011 (Sangiovese 80%, CS 15%, Merlot 5%) Ponte Rosso, red bridge over river Arbia, pays tribute to the 1260 Montaperti battle testified by Dante Aligheri, an example of the continuous war between Florence (Brolio) and Siena (Selvole)
Our Autumn magazine will feature the diversity of Chianti Classico and Sangiovese grapes. We thank Elena Gallo for the press release of January 29th convention.